What's inside?
Today I’m looking at a moisturiser that is still sold in the old size.. ie that hasnt been shunkflationed. And it’s got a price tag that screams quality. But is it? Let’s look:
This is 50ml and £315 at Harrods (but a search shows its sold at Walmart too, curious)
WATER/EAU (AQUA), ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, SQUALANE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CORYLUS AVELLANA (HAZEL) SEED OIL, ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) FRUIT EXTRACT, TOCOPHEROL, HYDROLYZED SESAME EXTRACT, ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN EXTRACT, ADENOSINE, SALIX ALBA (WILLOW) LEAF EXTRACT, JUNIPERUS COMMUNIS FRUIT OIL, SALVIA OFFICINALIS (SAGE) OIL, THYMUS MASTICHINA FLOWER OIL, POLYSILICONE-14, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, DIMETHICONE, HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN OIL, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, CETEARETH-33, DISODIUM EDTA, XANTHAN GUM, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CITRIC ACID, POLYSORBATE 60, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PHENOXYETHANOL, SORBIC ACID, LINALOOL, LIMONENE
Guess who?
Sisley, their all day all year cream. Ok let’s look at the ingredients:
Main ingredient- tapwater…even if it was preyed over at the vatican, still H20 and you can get that out your tap for a penny or so.
Next up: Octyl methoxycinnamate or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate or octinoxate, trade names Eusolex 2292 and Uvinul MC80, is an organic compound that is an ingredient in some sunscreens and lip balms. It is an ester formed from methoxycinnamic acid and 2-ethylhexanol. It is a liquid that is insoluble in water
Ok so you’re blocking out the HEALING sun’s rays as second ingredient. You can avoid midday sun, wear a hat, long sleeved clothes, for free. This is promoting the myth that sun causes ill health- wrong. Sun is free. Sun is healing. When you block it you become an income stream to the FarmaQuetical Industry. How did our ancestors survive life on the sunlit savannah and African plains?? Think.
Next- SQUALANE - finally a real ingredient. But of course, what is the source? Was it from China who extract it from um, volunteers? The Cannibal Club restaurant also promise that their meat supply is ethical (and young). Some ‘people-like-things’ have different stances on human life to us. Don’t fall for the fancy PR campaigns.
Then CETEARYL ALCOHOL - emulsifier to hold everything together. It’s from palm oil. Non palm sources very expensive and if you’re using cheapo tap water first then you surely won’t waste sheckels on non palm options.
And finally, in position 5 we have CORYLUS AVELLANA (HAZEL) SEED OIL - this is a real plant based extract - beloved hazel nut - so good for acneic skin, or skin that tends to oily. It’s a gem. Goes rancid rapidly though so lots of antioxidants would need to be added to this mega batch. I
Then isopropyl palmitate which wickedpedi says is ‘the ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is an emollient, moisturizer, thickening agent, and anti-static agent.’ Ok so palmitic is from palm, I rest my case. I dont need a crystal ball to see through the fancy words and pictures.
Then another real and good ingredient: Shea hip hip hooray! BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER. Yes I use this is all my creams and cleansers. It’s very very good on skin, and coming from sun kissed areas of the planet used by the locals to keep their skin safe.
That’s enough analysing. You find more synthetics and some dashes of naturals later on. Bear in mind this item is made in bulk in a massive stainless steel vat, tens of thousands of units made in a few hours. It’s a bulk product. Mainly water. If you can afford that price tag for water, I’d suggest you can get better value ingredients from a smaller maker. But its your sheckels and your choice.
For background info read the articles on collagen and squalane sources.